Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.